Live Streaming with X-T2

After testing a few times, the day finally arrive for me to use the X-T2 to live stream my brother’s wedding. I’m going to write about the gears first. Firstly is the camera – Fujifilm X-T2. I’ve blogged about how I ended up with this camera. So in addition to that, the video out works really well.

I’m able to get clean HDMI 1080p video feed from the Mini HDMI port continuously without even starts the recording on the camera. That’s mean I’m not restricted by the capacity of the SD card used, I can record on and on until my laptop’s HDD is full. I do have to disable the auto switch off function for power saving.

The body grip with its included power supply kept the camera powered throughout the shoot. There may be a slight power drain on the batteries but it was too little for me to notice it. All 3 batteries were practically almost full at the end of the 3 hours shoot when I disconnected the power.

Most of the shoot are done with the XF 10-24mm lens since the camera is set up pretty close up front stage. Arguably the 18-135mm or the 16-50mm will be a slightly better choice to zoom into the action without any lens change. I have to put in a static standby feed for lens change if I need a tighter crop of the frame with my UWA lens.

I bought the Razer Ripsaw for capturing the 1080p feed into my computer. It is the cheapest 1080p capture device I can find in Malaysia for the job. It works pretty well even though it’s primarily used by gamer to live-stream their console games. I didn’t compare the quality of the feed to the native files captured in the camera since my primary usage is for online streaming and that’s more of quality bottleneck. Since it can’t record 4k, I didn’t bother with that resolution.

The Razer Ripsaw is connected to my laptop’s USB 3.0 port. On the laptop, I used an open source software called OBS for online streaming. The initial set-up can be a bit intimidating but it wasn’t that hard. The actual usage during live-stream is pretty straight forward, I admit I did not tap into the full potential of the software. With OBS, I can choose to live-stream while record to hard-disk, just to make sure I still keep a copy of the video in case my live-stream failed. However the live-stream was a success, so I ended up not using the recordings.

As for encoder, I used the dGPU NVENC for online streaming and iGPU QSV for local recording. To be honest, I can’t really tell the difference in quality at a glance. I understand I’ll get better quality if I use software x264, but I don’t see the need to have that slight extra quality for this job.

I was lucky that the venue has extremely good free Wi-Fi, which save me the trouble of actually setting up the data connection myself with 3G hotspot. I was able to stream at 10mbps to YouTube without dropping frames. If the location doesn’t provide free Wi-Fi, I would have to be at the exact spot testing if I am able to get stable upload speed with my current telco, it is just so much variable compared to just using Wi-Fi and I was just really lucky.

I choose YouTube instead of Facebook due to the ease of editing the video after streaming it. I find it more private to use YouTube instead of Facebook whereby you get to share the link to specific people at any point of time by simply sending the link via Whatapps or email.

To do that with Facebook, I got to set the video as public and everyone on the friend list will be able to see it. I sounds good at first, until something embarrassing and everyone all over the world will get to watch it.

As I mention about editing in YouTube, due to the fact the camera never stops rolling throughout the wedding, it captured a lot of scene whereby nothing was happening and people were just waiting for things to happen. I can quickly use the timeline tool in YouTube to cut-out those time and save as a second video for those who wanted to re-watch.

All in all I’m very happy with this set-up. I wish I had a 4k video capture device since the camera is capable but such thing is simply too expensive for casual use. Since the bride likes the video feed too, I take that as a job well done.

 

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Live Streaming with X-T2

Precision Trackpad Driver for AW13

Found a way to force Windows Precision drivers on my Alienware 13R3.

Just to be clear, the latest touchpad driver from Dell is very good. The tracking and scrolling have improved a lot since I got my AW13. There’s just one thing bugging me – zooming in browser. It is just not as smooth like on Apple’s Safari, which Microsoft own Surface device can totally do it in Edge browser.

Seems to me the feature is available with Microsoft Precision touchpad driver, which I find it dumb not to have the same thing for other touchpad (Synaptics/ELAN). I need it because the text seems rather small on the 13″ screen with 1080p resolution. Yes I can tweak the DPI but I like the UI size to maintain native and small.

That’s just me, so here’s the workaround:

I found a thread in Superuser forum, a guy named James Manes made the driver work on his HP Spectre X360 (2017). He followed a post in Reddit for the mod, but added a fix for the driver to continue working after waking up from sleep.

I downloaded the driver from link in the Reddit post, followed the instruction to install the driver and restart the laptop. The touchpad menu in Windows 10’s Settings changed after the driver change, indicating Microsoft Precision driver is working and I am finally able to do smooth zoom in Edge.

I try putting the laptop to sleep and waking it up just to see if the gesture continues to work and it did.

But there’s some problems. Tracking is wonky, and isn’t as good as Dell latest driver, but I can live with that, some people can’t. Second, after zooming in Edge, the scroll left/right isn’t working well. I’ll bounce back if I swipe left/right, but it will scroll perfectly fine left/right. This behaviour was the same as scrolling up/down with the older Dell official driver, which they’d fix on later date.

I’ll use the new modified Precision driver for now and see how long I can tolerate the shortcomings.

Precision Trackpad Driver for AW13

Nay, not DLSR!

On my previous blog post, I said that I am going to buy a 5D Mark III. However after much consideration and failing to get a used body within my budget, I’ve decided to just get a new Fujifilm X-T2. I’ll write a review for the X-T2 soon, so this post is mostly about why I’ve done that.

First of I feel Canon as a camera company is just so arrogant, and I do not support such arrogance, which I am going to vote with my wallet. The recent 6D Mark II launch shows the extent they are going to cripple a camera so they can sell 5D, 1D and Cinema EOS at a much higher premium. I’m going to refer the camera as 6DII from now.

I can understand if they omitted 4K video and dual card slots for their cine line and pro-bodies, but a sensor with worse dynamic range than their very own APS-C 80D? Like seriously Canon? I really wanted to know who approved this sensor to go into a 2017 full-frame camera.

Even then, they should just included both 4K video recording and dual card slots because the 6DII is so physically huge and very expensive! Heck, if they have included these, I would have just bought the 6DII instead of XT2.

This led me into thinking again whether I should buy a used 5DIII with all the reason I’d previously wrote. Honestly the only thing I will miss out without buying a full-frame body is only bokeh. The 56mm f/1.2 give me more than enough for me to chew.

So coming back to the XT2 purchase. I’ve decided that the video from the 5DIII is not worth the it in 2017. Other than the 4K Magic Lantern hack, the default 1080p video from the camera seems terrible at best, compared to even the much more cheaper m43 cameras. Heck even the 1″ sensor from Sony RX100V can shoot sharper 1080p video as well as 4k video.

The XT2 can do sharp 4k, as well as HDMI out which I think I will be using for my brother’s wedding for streaming the feed online. By adding the Booster Grip, I can use the included power adapter to power the camera instead of relying on the little batteries. To do the same on 5DIII, I need to get a separate power adapter, an attachment for the correct battery size and the whole package doesn’t work very reliably, as some of the reviews has mentioned in Amazon.

Lastly I manage to find a very good X-T2 deal, but it doesn’t come with Malaysia Warranty. I’ve used the X100S and X-T1 and those two has never gave me much problems and I’m confident in the X-T2 will be as reliable to not needing any local warranty.

Nay, not DLSR!

Finding a HDMI capture card

As for sending video signal into a computer for streaming, too bad GPU’s HDMI can reverse into an input and using the GPU directly for recording. So I need an external HDMI capture card since I can’t plug any PCI-E cards into my laptop or my m-ITX PC.

At first looking in Lelong, the HDMI capture device sold are only able to save into a USB host, and unable to pass-thru video data to a computer directly. A bit of Google search, I found a lot of professional use Blackmagic Intensity for streaming HDMI video into their PC. It cost RM1050 here, which is very expensive if I only wanted to very occasional streaming.

Gamers are also using HDMI capture device to stream their games online, from their console, so a few companies sells their product to cater this niche markets. In theory it can also be use for output from a camera, which some people actually manage to use it as such.

A very famous brand in US with such product is Elgato with their HD60 and HD60s series. The difference with the HD60s is that it provide HDMI pass-thru, into a PC where the video encoding will be done. The HD60 will encode the video, but it would not be very good in quality.

Since there is no distributor bringing in those products, the price to get one from Lazada is very high, much higher compared to buying on in the States. Last year Razer launched their very own HDMI capture devices too called the Ripsaw and it is brought into Malaysia. I manage to find someone selling at a very competing price of RM630 in Lelong so I think that’s what I am going to get.

The Razer Ripsaw is using the same internals from Avermedia Live Gamer Extreme. It is cheaper in the US, but significantly more expensive in Malaysia at RM1.2k maybe due to no official local distributor.

I wish I can get an affordable 4k capture card at around RM400 since these stuff shouldn’t be so expensive to begin with. Until then, I should be sastified with the 1080p since not there’s no real usage for streaming at 4k anyway.

Finding a HDMI capture card

Get Another DSLR?

I’ve been eying for the 5D Mark III for sometimes now, even before I bought my second hand X-T1. I couldn’t find a reason to buy it because of how rare I will be shooting with it since I’ve stopped shooting for events. Until now…

My younger brother is going to get married in November, the wedding will be held in KL. My mother who has difficulty walking couldn’t come to KL to attend his wedding, so I’m thinking to some how stream the event online, so she can watch from her bed.

Yes I can use a webcam which I already have, but I think the video feed from a camera will be much better. In addition, adding a tele lens will allow for close up at people’s expression. For a camera to do that, it has to have direct video output, preferably thru HDMI for best resolution. Looking at my camera collection: Canon 5D, 40D, 1000D, Fujifilm X-T1 and X100S. None of them has so called Clean HDMI Out.

The 1000D and 40D has PC tethering, and I could probably hack that with some software to stream what’s captured on the screen. I don’t think this is a good idea because the video feed wouldn’t be smooth and low resolution in today’s standard. The X-T1 got phone tethering, but there’s no way to stream the video out, at least not in a reliable way.

Since I already got a couple of Canon and Fujifilm lens, I decided not to look for a third brand of camera for this little project. The brand new Fujifilm X-T2 has got sharp 4k recording as well as clean HDMI out. It is priced at RM6400 brand new.

At around the same price, I could get a used Canon 5D Mark III. The 5D3 only shoots 1080p, very blur 1080p. Looking how its successor 5D Mark IV compared to the rest in low light video, seems like the 5D3 bigger sensor won’t be an advantage in noise department at high ISO. The 5D3’s Clean HDMI out doesn’t output sound from the camera’s mic too.  The 5D3 looks like a poor choice in every way as a video camera. It is also not a very good still too in 2017 with its poor dynamic range.

If I were to sell all of my Canon lens and replace them with Fujifilm…

X-T2 – RM6400
XF 50-140mm – RM6400
XF 16mm – RM4400
minus – RM9500 selling old Canon lens
Total: RM7700

That comes out almost RM2k more than a used 5D Mark III, but of course it’ll give a big boost in image and video quality. If I regretted the purchase and decided to sell of the Fuji, I will lost around RM3-4k, but if I were to sell the used Mark III, I only lose around RM1k at most.

If not for still owning good Canon lens, I wouldn’t be considering the 5D3 at all. However I still have the awesome 70-200mm f/2.8 and 24mm f/1.4 which perform really well on full-frame camera, and I really miss getting nice bokeh after shooting mostly with Fujifilm for 3 years. I’m sure the X-T2 is faster than the X-T1 but the 5D Mark III’s focus will still have a slight edge in speed. Or I am a Canon fanboy… damnit.

And for streaming, the viewer will not be watching from a 50″ TV, they most probably watch it on their computer, phone or tablet and probably over Youtube or Facebook. Some may be streaming at 1080p but most will most probably stream at 720p or lower in Malaysia. So the video quality of the camera doesn’t actually matter, solely in this aspect.

So I’m most probably going to get the 5D3, plus a grip, plus extra batteries, plus a ACK-E6 adapter for powering the camera continuously without battery.

Get Another DSLR?

Quick Take on HTC U11 Selfie Camera

My wife has been using the Oneplus 3T for some more than half a year, and it has been a great upgrade from her previous HTC Desire Eye. The OP3T is smoother, faster and she isn’t frustrated with Instagram crashing so often anymore.

With better image sensor, the front and back camera also takes better photos especially in low light. However the color coming out of the image from Desire Eye is better and more pleasing than from the OP3T, which says a lot about the way HTC processes the photos. The Desire Eye front camera has a ultrawide angle lens too, and on HTC software, it is able to do HDR, which is very useful during mid-day when the sunlight is harsh.

When HTC announced the U11, I was very excited and hoping to see if it can be a better selfie camera phone for my wife. With the flagship specifications, I don’t think she will be disappointed. Most of the reviews online are very positive too. The absence of headphone jack isn’t a problem for her because she never use the headphone before.

It is however, very difficult to find people who really look into the performance of the front camera. I guess most of the reviewers aren’t into selfie. And the people who does a lot of selfie, isn’t interested of the technical details of the front camera. I really need to test it out the old-school way by using the actual product in my hand.

Both the Maxis Centre and HTC store in Sunway Pyramid has a demo unit of the HTC U11, so that mall is the best place to go. Maxis also has the silver blue version in stock if my wife were to upgrade her phone since she is already on Maxis.

The selfie camera is the ONLY thing we ever tested when my wife and I went to the store for a test use. My wife took a few photos with the U11 alongside of her OP3T, so it is nothing scientific. At first glance, the image comes out really nice. The color is much natural compared to those from OP3T, the auto HDR is also a very welcoming feature which prevent some parts of the photos from over exposed.

But there is just one big problem. Auto-focus, or the lack of it. I couldn’t believe there is no auto-focus on the U11, and the photos comes out soft when zoom to pixel level. I just couldn’t make it shoot crisply sharp photos and the sharpness is so much worse than the 3T.

Then there’s the shutter lag. Without any sort of AF, I shouldn’t see any lag at all, but the U11 exhibit some kind of shutter lag from the moment you press the shutter button to the time it actually take a photo. I could say it took longer for the 3T to shoot since it to need focus before shooting, but at least if it pre-focus correctly, it shoot faster than the U11.

I also make a quick test on using the new Edge Sense feature to take a photo. I can think of how useful is it during winter when we’re using thick gloves and unable to use the screen, but there is no winter in Malaysia. Using it to take photo also is also less stable than a shutter or on-screen button, which make taking low light photos really useless. So yes, the new feature is still gimmicky.

So the search for the best selfie camera phone continues. A lot of phones for the selfie crowd doesn’t have flagship specs, and the flagship phones only emphasize on the main shooter. The Google Pixel probably has one of the best selfie shooter for now but it is not officially sold in Malaysia, what a bummer.

Quick Take on HTC U11 Selfie Camera

4TB Seagate 2.5″ HDD

Ever since I started using the Noctua NH-C14, I lost the ability to use a 3.5″ Hard Disk inside my Ncase M1. When I was using and AIO CPU cooler, I was able to use a 4TB drive to store my photos and downloaded content, saving precious space for my SSD intended for storing OS, software and games for quick loading time. I put the drive into an external USB 3.0 case after that, and the performance isn’t that great.

Seagate Backup Plus 4TB

I discovered the availability of the 2.5″ 4TB drive quite late, it was available since late 2016. Upon researching, buying the drive itself is more expensive than buying the external USB 3.0 model called Seagate Backup Plus. Even in Malaysia, the price difference is roughly RM180 (RM680 vs RM860)

Seagate Backup Plus 4TB

The Seagate Backup Plus is just the 4TB drive inside an external USB 3.0 enclosure. It isn’t like some WD external drive whereby the SATA ports for the internal drives has been removed to make way for smaller external drive. After reading few reviews in Amazon whereby people successfully shuck the drive, I was confident enough to get one, shuck it and put it into my Ncase M1.

Seagate Backup Plus 4TB

Taking out the internal drive from the casing is very easy as the case is only held together by adhesive and I don’t need much force to pry open it. Opening up the case, I can see the drive is covered by a thin layer of aluminum, which probably assist in cooling. The HDD inside is again held by rubber at its four corner, probably for impact absorption. The drive is easily taken out, and disconnected from enclosure.

Seagate Backup Plus 4TB

At 15mm, the drive is quite a bit thicker than old 9mm laptop drive, or newer 7mm drive be it SSD or mechanical. That being said, I’ve seen people moding their PS4 for the drive to fit, however I wouldn’t fit into those newer laptop with built-in 7mm drives. Surprisingly it fitted perfectly onto my Ncase M1 front panel, and there was a still a very small gap when the front panel is on.

Seagate Backup Plus 4TB

This isn’t a performance drive, so no WD Black or SSD level speed here. It manage to transfer files in the 90MB/s range, which is enough for me. What I’m interested is lowering the latency, by not going thru USB 3.0 on an external drive. I can’t really benchmark that, but running Lightroom with my huge photo library is slightly quicker now. In addition, using an internal drive is much more stable compared to an external.

Seagate Backup Plus 4TB

The 4TB 2.5″ Seagate Backup Plus can be a little more expensive than a WD Green or Blue 3.5″, but I highly recommends it if you ITX build doesn’t have space for a 3.5″ HDD and you need a 4TB drive to store your data on the cheap.

4TB Seagate 2.5″ HDD